Wasdale and Wastwater
Wasdale is remote, tranquil, and a truly beautiful valley in the western Lake District National Park in Cumbria in north-west England.
The name came from old Norse word Vatnsdalr, meaning "valley of the water". Much of the valley floor is occupied by Wast Water, England's deepest lake with a depth of 258ft (almost 80m). At its deepest it is below sea level.
Wastwater is one of two lakes that are both close to my home and my heart. When I moved to Cumbria in the mid 1980’s this was one of the first of the lakes that I visited and with it being so close to my home it is an area that I have visited on many occasions over the past 30+ years. The area is unlike most of the Lake District and it has a ruggedness that has not been diminished by tourism. The feel of the area changes dramatically throughout the year and with different weather conditions. On a sunny day the views are stunning and it is easy to see why Wast Water was voted the best view in the UK in the 2007 ITV programme 'Britain's Favourite View', beating 15 other nominated locations. On darker or stormy days the hills can appear bleak and foreboding, providing dramatic scenery for the landscape photographer.
Although remote, Wasdale can easily be reached by car and the lake is only 10 minutes or so drive from the A595 trunk road that runs along Cumbria’s west coast..
The road from Gosforth provides spectacular views of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head on the approach to the lake. The boulder fields of The Screes can be seen covering the lower slopes of the mountains.
There are two roads to Wasdale, the most travelled being the one from Gosforth, a small village on the A595 near to Seascale. The narrow road is hemmed in by trees and dry stone walls along much of its length until you are almost at the lake before opening up to give views of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head (above), a steep mountain range rising up from the far shore of the lake.
The second route starts at the Old Post Office in Santon Bridge towards Nether Wasdale (now a popular camp and caravan site). The road is again quite narrow and rises steeply as you leave Santon Bridge. As you round a corner at its brow the stunning views of the mountains of Wasdale come into view (below). On a sunny day, this has to be one of the most spectacular views in the Lake District.
The road from Santon Bridge offers this stunning view of the mountains of Wasdale Head, dominated in the centre by the pyramid shaped Great Gable.
The two roads join at Greendale on the shore of Wastwater lake and the narrow road continues north eastwards to skirt the shore of Wast Water lake along its 3 mile length.
There are many parking areas along the road where there is easy access to the shingle covered shores of the lake, particularly near Greendale. These are popular with walkers and tend to fill quite quickly so you need to be early to get a good spot.
Further along the lake the parking spaces become less frequent.
The road is narrow, very close to the water in places, and has many potholes so care needs to be taken when passing oncoming traffic.
There is a small National Trust Car Park at Overbook (NY 168 069) with space for about a dozen cars and an honesty box payment system at the entrance. A new larger carpark has been built at the head of the lake to cope with the numbers of cars that travel to this area (Sat Nav postcode: CA20 1EX, Map Reference: NY 182 075). The car park has space for about 100 cars and provides toilet facilities. At the time of writing the car park pay and display system only accepts cash (coins) so you need to make sure you have sufficient change before attempting to park
Across the lake are the very steep and unstable boulder fields of The Screes below the summits of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head. The head of the valley is dominated by Great Gable and Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England, along with Scafell, Kirk Fell and Yewbarrow.
The road ends at Wasdale Head, starting point for climbers attempting to climb Great Gable, Scafell Pike, Pillar, Kirkfell, Lingmell and other mountains in the area.
Wasdale Head Inn is located at the end of the valley, offering refreshments to returning climbers after a day in the fells. There is limited parking available at the inn.
Photography
The parking lay-bys at Greendale provide easy access to the shore of the lake and there are many opportunities for photography. If the water level is low there are many large boulders near to the shore that provide foreground interest with views along the lake towards Great Gable.. When the water is higher, however, these rocks are submerged so the image may lack any foreground subjects. The image below was taken from one of the small bays along the lake shore. The rocks and small “headland” provide foreground interest but cut off the views along the lake. Repositioning onto the rocky outcrop would have provided a more sweeping view along the lake.
The signpost at Greendale (above) has also become a popular image.
The shore of Wast Water at Greendale, looking towards Wasdale Head and the snow covered peaks of Great Gable, Lingmell and Scafell.
Tracing your steps back towards Nether Wasdale there are a number of lay-bys towards the end of the lake. These give views along nearly the whole length of the lake towards the iconic pyramidal shape of Great Gable at its head and the impressive scree covered slopes of Illgill Head and Whin Rigg (“The Screes”) - see below.
The road from Santon Bridge passes the youth hostel and then crosses a cattle grid before arriving at the lakeside. Immediately after the cattle grid is a small pull-off area that offers views along almost the whole length of the lake.
Heading towards Wasdale Head provides better views of Scafell and Scafell Pike (the highest peak in England). From Greendale these mountains are almost hidden by the bulk of Illgill Head, but head on for a few hundred metres and there are better views of the mountains. After a little while there is a small secluded bay and nearby parking area. This provides access to a shingle beach area offering views across to the Scafells and also further along the lake towards Yewbarrow, Kirk Fell, Great Gable and Lingmell.
Further along the road towards Wasdale Head provides views across to the rocky peaks of Scafell Pike (centre distance) and Scafell (centre right).
Note from this angle Scafell appears taller than Scafell Pike, but this is just due to it being closer to the camera.
Near to Wasdale Head there is a new car park, accessed across a small metal bridge. This provides opportunities for walks towards Scafell and Scafell Pike, along with the far shores of the lake. The bridge is narrow and so you need to be wary of traffic and may need to move out of the way for vehicles crossing the bridge, but standing at its middle you are provided with stunning views along Lingmell Beck towards Great Gable.
Lingmell Beck has its source high on the slopes of Lingmell (right) before flowing into Wast Water. This view was taken on the bridge from the lake shore road, over the stream to the new Lake Head Car Park.
Finally, another popular view of the lake is the stone pump house sited where Wastwater flows into the River Irt. You will need to head towards Nether Wasdale and park up in the small car park at Cinderdale (immediately before the Nether Wasdale village sign). Park here and turn right exiting the car park to cross the small stone bridge. Turn left onto the track towards Easthwaite Farm and follow this track past the farm until you reach the foot of the lake.
Stone pump house at the foot of Wastwater where the lake flows into the River Irt
Getting There:
From the A595 in West Cumbria head for the village of Gosforth near to Seascale. Head through the village past the shops and car park and you will come to a fork in the road. The lefthand fork heads to Wasdale Head and Wastwater. The righthand fork heads to Eskdale.
If taking the left hand route (Route 1), continue along the road through the village, up the hill and through the forest. The road is fairly easy with only a few narrow sections with passing places.
If taking the right hand route (Route 2), follow the road through the village, continue through Santon and on to Santon Bridge. The road passes the Santon Bridge Inn (on the left), goes over a bridge and bends sharply right. Immediately after the right hand bend turn left at the Old Post Office Campsite and follow this road towards Nether Wasdale. This road has spectacular views of the mountains at Wasdale Head. After crossing the little bridge at Cinderdale you reach a junction signposted left to Nether Wasdale.
Instead, turn right towards the lake. Continue on this narrow road, past the Youth Hostel, and you will arrive at the end of the lake. The road continues along the lake shore and joins with Route 1.
Continue along the lake shore road towards Wasdale Head and the Wasdale Head Inn and you will arrive at a National Trust carpark. Alternatively there is usually plenty of places to park on the grass verges near to the inn.
Overbook Car Park Grid Ref NY 168 069
Lake Head Car Park Grid Ref NY 182 075